Ok, the machine I have is fairly new, less than a year old, and yesterday when I was working on a quilt, I had just finished one block and was starting to sew it to another when it suddenly would not pull the fabric through. I’ve cleaned it thoroughly, checked the works above and below the needle, tried different fabrics, played with the tension, stitches and stitch length and nothing. The machine I have is very simple too, there is no switch to lift or lower the feed dog or anything I could have hit. I had literally just finished sewing one thing and was starting to sew another but it would not pull the fabric through. Please help me out, thanks.
I tried changing the needle and the problem persisted and the feed dog is still moving normally its just not pulling the fabric for some reason. I looked over the machine parts pretty closely but I can’t find anything.

I’m assuming you’ve already checked to see if your stitch length is set to a normal stitch length, and that the presser foot is down when you’re sewing.

The bad news is that you may have a broken gear in the feed dogs. I would take the machine apart as far as you can using the manual (pull the needleplate, pull the bobbin case), and use a penlight and dental mirror to inspect everything possible, clean (vacuum, no canned air!) and oil per the manual again, put in a new needle, and try again. But I really suspect a bad gear here. It’s a common way for the less expensive machines to die.

The online reviews of the machine are less than stellar. What’s the warranty like?

I would like to know if I would be able to sew a very thick fabric with a basic Singer home machine. The fabric would be one of those quilted moving blanket. If my machine can do it, what kind of needle should I use. Also, at the moment, my machine is bundling/knotting up at the bottom, under the needle, inside the machine. What should I do to fix this? Thanks.

Depends on the model of the machine… Singer made some fine machines pre-1970 that can handle anything you put under the presser foot. After that, it really, really depends on the model, it seems.

The loopies on the bottom are the result of not enough tension on the upper thread. Take a look at the pairs of photos at http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/22521551 — the first pair show normal stitching with blue thread on the top and red on the bobbin. The others show what sort of stitching you get with minor misthreadings and improper seam starting. When you thread the upper part of the sewing machine with the presser foot in the down position, the thread does not enter the tension disks and then loops form on the bottom of the stitching. If you try to sew with the presser foot up (an easy mistake to make when dealing with quilts and thick fabrics), likewise there is no tension on the top thread because the presser foot is up, causing the tension disks to be open.

The needle you want for quilting is called a "quilting needle" by Schmetz… slightly different eye style and point. If you’re working with a knitted fabric, like fleece, you’d use a large universal or ballpoint needle.

Here’s the 10 minute fix for what ails most sewing machines:

– Dig out the manual. Take all the thread out of/off of the
machine. Pull the needleplate and the bobbin case if it’s
removeable. Clean and oil per the manual’s recommendation. Use a
brush and vacuum, not compressed air (which blows lint in
farther), and real sewing machine oil, not 3-in-1 type oil (it
hardens and freezes the machine) nor WD-40 type stuff (it’s a
solvent, not a lubricant).

– Put in a new needle of the correct point style for the fabric
you’re sewing (ballpoint for knits, sharps for wovens) and the
right size for the thickness of fabric (10/70 for shirting weight
fabrics, 12/80 for heavy shirtings or light pantsweight. 14/90
for medium to heavy pantsweight, 16/100 for very heavy fabrics.
Make sure the needle is in right way around — a needle in
backwards will skip stitches or not stitch at all.

– Take a good look at the bobbin. If it’s lumpy or you spot
loops, strip off the thread and rewind. Bobbins should be
smoothly and evenly wound. Wind at a slow, steady speed — it
helps with tension issues if the thread isn’t stretching as it’s
being wound.

– Rethread, with manual in hand. Make sure the presser foot is
UP when you thread the top — it opens the top tension so that
the thread actually gets in between the tension disk (loops on
the bottom, not enough tension on top).

– Fetch up the bobbin thread. You need about a 4" tail of thread
top and bottom. Run both threads under the presser foot and
behind it.

– If you’ve been playing with the top tension, set it to 4. If
you’ve been playing with the bobbin tension, let me know and
we’ll try to rebalance it, but you’re likely to have to take it
into the shop.

Now, each and every time you start to sew a seam, this is how you
do it:

1) Place the fabric under the needle, and use the handwheel to
lower the needle into the fabric (be sure to turn it the right
way… seee the manual).

2) Drop the presser foot.

3) Hold the thread tails behind the presser foot with your left
hand.

4) Take a couple of stitches

5) Drop the thread tails and sew normally.

If this doesn’t fix your problems, you may have some thread
caught farther in the machine than you can spot… doesn’t take
much for some machines to start pitching a fit. Or you may have
accidentally knocked the machine out of time with one of the
jams. Bad timing is actually a fairly rare event, often preceeded
by broken needles and loud noises, but a good solid jam is
another way to throw off the timing. You can check here to see if
you think timing is the problem:
<http://www.sewusa.com/Sewing_Machine_Repair/Sewing Machine Hook
Timing.htm> or http:// tinyurl.com/ smtiming (you’ll have to
paste that back together) but that’s generally something that a
repair shop needs to adjust.

Really good habit to cultivate: whenever you sit down at the
machine for the first time that day, take two minutes and give it
a basic cleaning. You’ll save $$$ on repair bills and extend the
life of the machine.

:

I acquired and old primitive device made out of heavy cast iron I believe. Marked on it is " THE SINGER MANUFACTURING CO" and 2 sets of numbers… "F9764597" & "49 K 3". It has hand hand crank wheel and as you turn the wheel a thin piece of metal about 2" long and 10" wide with several slots in it moves back and forth with the cranking of the wheel. Some one told me they used it to make quilts or fabric but were not sure of the actual name of this device. I would like to know what this is called. I can email pictures to any one who might know what this is. I am trying to describe it to sell it on eBay. The whole thing is 14" wide with out the wheel and 12" tall. Here is a link to 2 pictures…

http://img682.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=singerloom1.jpg

I appreciate all the help I can get. Thanks.

Wow! You’ve stumped me! You might need to go somewhere that has more eyeballs than Yahoo answers, such as the patternreview forum or maybe the threads magazine forum. They have lots of experts there who might have some inkling of what your device is.

http://sewing.patternreview.com/
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/ click on "gatherings" for their forum. registering is free and you should find someone there who knows what your thing is.

I typically use a Singer, but it’s in the shop. I’m borrowing my friend’s machine and the right needle of her White Speedylock 1600 broke. My machine has little screws to release each of the needles. This White machine has two little black rivets, and I don’t have a clue as to how to release the broken needle. PLEASE HELP! All I’ve wanted to do all weekend is sew my quilt!

Call your friend and ask to borrow the owner’s manual. If that’s not a viable option, look up the manual online. Most companies have them posted so they don’t have to print extras.

I’ve been using my mother’s Singer Meritt 4530 for years now, and am now looking to buy a machine for myself. I generally sew purses, mend clothes, etc, but am looking to get more into making clothing/accessories as well as quilting. Is there a good, solid, all around type of sewing machine that I should be looking at? What type of features should I look for in a machine that would allow them to work for the type of sewing that I want to do?

stick with Singer…. you want a machine that can be fixed if necessary…. I’d choose either the Singer or a Kenmore…. other brands are nice, but if there’s not a repair shop nearby, what’s the use in it?…

as far as a life machine…. Singer….. and don’t get all thrilled with a bunch of doodads and gadgets … get a basic machine that does good solid work…. buttonholes, zigzags, etc…. and that will handle thicker stacks of materials…. or filmy nitegown stuff, too!… I have third-generation Kenmore that does it all like that… wish I still had Momma’s old Singer that she quilted with….

I just started a quilting class. I haven’t sewn in years so my Singer sewing machine was left in my garage and the plate over the bobbin area rusted and is hard to remove. I would like to purchase a new machine but do not know if I should purchase a sewing or quilting machine and what is the difference? The ladies in my quilting class have what looks like regular machines (Viking , Janome, etc). I borrowed the classes’ Janome machine as mine is not in working order. Has anyone taken a quilting class and does machine matter?

How in the world did Grandma do all this on a simple treadle sewing machine?

Go to as many sewing machine dealers as you can and tell them you need a sewing machine that can also be used for quilting.

Ideally, you need the capability of free-motion stitching and a roomy harp.

Try out all the brands and models and choose the one you like the best.

Quilting techniques creating an “Americana Star Variation”. Live video of yours truly stitching on a 1910 Singer Model 66 treadle machine. No electricity required.

Duration : 0:4:39

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I have a Singer Inspiration and I was sewing my boyfriend’s mom’s birthday present and then I moved to sewing decorative patches on my jeans. I notice all night the thread on the underside of what I was doing wasn’t the best and when I got to my jeans the underside kept clumping, but I just went on because it was going to be on the inside of my jeans (can you tell I’m new at this sewing thing?). The clumps kept getting caught in the feed dogs so I would gently pull them out. Then my machine stopped picking up the bobbin and I have tried multiple times to get it to do so. I re-thread my machine, I put the bobbin in and out again many times, I refilled the bobbin, I put one of a different brand in and I still won’t pick it up…I have been using Walmart thread..I think it was quilting or something..it was $1 so I bought it just for stuff like this.

Could my machine be broken???

you have a few things going on here…1, you need to adjust the tension on the thread. your sewing machine guide usually tells you what tension you need for different fabrics. 2. sounds like you need to oil your machine. there is special oil needed for sewing machines. they sell it at target or any craft store. your manual will tell you where you need to apply the oil as there is usually a particular spot where it needs to be put in the machine. 3. you probably need to replace the needle. If the needle is slightly bent, it won’t go into the lower bobbin correctly and pull up the thread. sometimes you can hear it hitting when you go to sew. the jean fabric was probably too heavy for the needle you had and made it bend. You need a heavy weight needle.

How and Why to adjust the bobbin tension when using different threads in the bobbin of your sewing machine.

Duration : 0:4:35

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I’m a step above beginner. I don’t need quilting or serger functions. It would be nice to have a machine that can be set to go forward or reverse (I have seen some Singer ones that go reverse when you hold down a lever but I don’t want to have to hold down the lever the whole time if I want to do a whole line). I have heard of the Singer and Brother brands but I’m not sure which one’s better.

I want something below $1,000.

What machine would you recommend I get? Please be somewhat specific with model names so that I can order it. Thanks!

Your question is a little like asking what shoes should you buy… sewing machines are something you really need to try for yourself before you decide to purchase. I’ve sewn on a lot of different types and brands of machines over the years… some of them instantly feel like old friends, and some feel like I’ve suddenly sprouted toes in place of my fingers.

And rather than a single combination machine, many people find that they prefer a sewing machine and an embroidery only machine.

Some inexpensive machines are nearly impossible to find parts for. Others are just not going to hold up for long. Still others are so inaccurate that it really makes sewing quite difficult. And dealer services, particularly guide classes, can be important to learning to use a machine with minimal frustration.

So I’d suggest going out and trying various machines at the best local dealers around, and listening to how the dealership is doing. And, though I hate to be a pessimist, ask who handles warranty service if the dealership folds… with some manufacturers, you then have to send the machine to the factory for warranty service.

Go, try, play. Take your time in choosing a machine… there are a lot of good ones out there, and some not so wonderful ones. Check with places like the machine reviews at http://www.patternreview.com when you get things narrowed down a bit. Make yourself a comparison checklist of features you want. Attach samples you’ve sewn with your own fabric and thread to your checklist for comparison. Try a machine a couple of times before you make your final selection.

My personal preferences are for Elna, Pfaff, Viking, but there are a lot of other brands out there that are wonderful machines. Bernina, for instance, does excellent stitching — but they’re one of the brands that makes me feel like I’ve got toes instead of fingers. You won’t know what kinds you get along with unless you try them.

Is there a reason you want to sew backwards for extended periods? The feed dogs are usually less accurate feeding in reverse, fwiw.